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From grain to plate: the story of Valencian paella
Del grano al plato: la historia de la paella valenciana
On the south-eastern coast of Spain, the city of Valencia has been cultivating rice for over a millennium.
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Surrounding the city is 46 square miles of fertile land known as La Huerta.
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“Rice in Valencia isn’t an ingredient; it’s our identity card,” says Santos Ruiz, an agronomist who has been working to protect and promote Valencian rice since 1999.
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First grown in the nearby Albufera in the eighth century, rice has been part of Valencia’s history for over 1,000 years.
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Blessed with vegetables and meat from La Huerta and seafood from the Mediterranean, Valencia has hundreds of rice recipes.
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But the star is Valencian paella.
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“Every household has its own version, but most Valencians will tell you that a Valencian paella has rabbit, chicken and vegetables,” says Santos.
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While recipes can vary, one non-negotiable thing is the origin and quality of the rice.
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For best results, Valencian paella should be prepared with one of three rice varieties grown in Albufera Natural Park.
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One likely theory about the origins of Valencian paella is that the dish was invented by Albufera rice farmers in the 15th century.
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Beyond its cultural and historical significance, rice growing in Valencia has also played a vital role in protecting the city’s unique environment.
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Albufera Natural Park - 70% of its surface rice fields - is one of Europe’s best-protected areas for migrating birds.
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“Eating paella in a restaurant is nice,” says Santos.
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“But the tradition of paella is the experience of cooking it over an open fire, surrounded by friends and family.
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That’s the tradition of paella, and we must keep it alive.”